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Measuring, cutting, tipping and adding bones

You may be wondering why this bridal corset is turquoise. It’s a unique corset for a unique bride! C has a beloved pair of boots, which she plans to wear with her wedding dress – a frothy, bustled, strapless gown, bustle, corset and boots!

After talking with her and her mom, taking measurements and doing a couple fittings we determined the right sizing and that this corset will see additional wear as part of a costume. Everyone has a unique shape and squish factor and how tightly you want to lace must be taken into consideration. This is not to be confused with “tight lacing” or “waist training”. Should that be your desire, research, research, research and consult your doctor before you begin.

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Pattern weights save the day!

More pics and info after the jump.

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36 grommets take a while to set.

These photos don’t really do the process justice. There was a lot of cutting and seaming (and seaming, and seaming…). A corset is going to have a lot of strain placed on it, so the seams must be strong and an adequate number and placement of bones used. 24 bones and a busk in this one. I prefer smaller grommets – they look nicer and the extra criss-crossing of the laces spreads the pressure out more evenly.

Sometimes it’s necessary to add bones or reshape a piece, to accommodate a larger (or smaller) rib-cage, fuller bust or hip, or even uneven hips. This particular corset has bust gussets, which I rather like. The gussets add a subtle detail and, in my opinion, a huge bonus; the chances of her trying to put the corset on upside down are minimized. Don’t laugh – I’ve done it.

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Reverse side bias binding.

I made bias tape out of the reverse side of the outer fabric, which is going to be a nice contrast. Hand stitching it inside gives a clean finish.

Overall I’m pretty pleased with it. It’s strong, pretty and sturdy – Victorian women’s body-armor, if you will.

Visit the wrap up page for final pics of the corset and some shots of the dress.

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