Looks like this is going to be at least a three part series:
- Buckram Experiment 2023
- Buckram Experiment 2023 part 2 (this post)
- Buckram Experiment 2023 part 3 (TBD April/May 2024)
Gum Arabic and Hessian
My next step was to try both a stiffer fabric with bigger yarns and spaces between the yarns and a better stiffener. I cut a piece of Hessian (it’s burlap, but I bought it for an upholstery project and that’s what they call it) to size for my project and got to it.
- I used a milk frother to mix up 6 tsp of Gum Arabic with 250ml of water. I would have used more, but that’s all my container would handle. It took maybe 30 minutes to get it all mixed in and for the resulting foam to subside.
- Apply/squeegee/dry to damp/iron, repeat x4? x6? I don’t remember now. The result is stiffer than the Guar Gum, but not as much as I anticipated.
Thoughts and Next Steps
While I do see the Gum Arabic as an improvement over the Guar, I’m not sold on it’s permanence when you factor in all the sweating I will do in this costume. Am I willing to risk all my work ending up in a limp and puckered finished garment? Nope.
Options:
- buy some actual buckram (grumbles over price and availability)
- try hide glue (still ewww, also there many of different types…)
- try something synthetic (ah, research time!)
While I’m all for period authenticity, we do make many compromises and that’s okay. I don’t have the time or patience to sew everything by hand or to try to weave and dye my own fabric. My compromises may look different than yours. I’m moving on to a synthetic stiffener.
I started researching what stiffener is used in buckram now (it’s a PVA glue). I’ve found one at a bookbinding supply site that I’m pretty excited about. I do need to wait to buy it until there are no more freezes. Apparently, if it freezes during shipping, it’s useless.
My costume time is getting tight and I’d like to get on with it already! But for now, I’m hoping to buy the glue mid-April. “The Buckram Experiment 2023 part 3” post will follow.
Updates on other projects
- I have a kirtle bodice mock up, as well as one for the partlet. I’m going more historical (lower middle class) and realized that the most appropriate similar costume is the same structure (not detail) as Trossfrau. With that in mind, the partlet will be a gollar.
- the mini pavilion has a new structure (a bare popup), but the canvas from last year should still work. Waiting for the weather to clear up.
- The graphic for the tabard has been redrawn to work as a stencil.
- The guild pavilion has been re-planned and I’m waiting for some measurements so I can buy supplies.
By the Bodkin 
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